UPDATE 11/29/11
Went out to Shanty last sunday for some more new route scouting, a beautifully rainy cool day out with the dog bushwhacking and exploring. Found three or four new bolt-able routes in the Amphitheater that will definitely go, and one 45-60 degree overhung finger crack that will go on trad. Went out tonight with a buddy of mine and put the first bolt in one of the bolt-able lines, projected 11+ or 12, worked the first sequences and it looks super fun so far. The first moves go from a pair of three finger pockets that go up to a crimper rail, match or cross a bit further to the left and a long dyno to a less than positive incut. Will go out another night this week, time and weather permitting and try to finish some more of the line. Looking forward to a fun project! Will post pics and info as soon as I get some up. Climb on!
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Shanty Hollow- Sport
UPDATE 11/19/11
Put two more bolts in the route, all that is lacking is the two bolts for anchors and the chains, which will be done as soon as this infernal rain clears out! The latest two were done on ascenders and some tension tricks using small cams (bodyweight only, otherwise the route could be led on trad). Bolts used were 12mm Coeur Goujon 5-part bolts from Petzl (12mm because of the nature of the local sandstone; go beefy or go home!) with a Petzl Rocpec hand drill. Some more cleaning needed yet, but the route definitely goes, and should be a lot of fun once finished. Climb on!
Put two more bolts in the route, all that is lacking is the two bolts for anchors and the chains, which will be done as soon as this infernal rain clears out! The latest two were done on ascenders and some tension tricks using small cams (bodyweight only, otherwise the route could be led on trad). Bolts used were 12mm Coeur Goujon 5-part bolts from Petzl (12mm because of the nature of the local sandstone; go beefy or go home!) with a Petzl Rocpec hand drill. Some more cleaning needed yet, but the route definitely goes, and should be a lot of fun once finished. Climb on!
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Shanty Hollow-Sport
UPDATE 11/19/11
Developing a new bolted line at Shanty Hollow, right after the last overhang on the way to the waterfall. Went out the other night and put the first bolt in (time restraint) on lead hanging from slings, going out again tonight to intstall the next two bolts and the anchors, probably won't be able to bolt these on lead, as I most likely won't have a belayer. Some clean up required higher up on the route, as the exit holds from the last overhang are covered in moss. Projected at 9+ or 10 something, the route follows mostly monster holds until the end crux overhang. The from start to finish the route inscribes almost a perfect 45 degree arc, the ending bulge has the smallest holds and the most extreme angle. Can't wait to finish and do the route, hope to see people on it in the future! Climb on!
Developing a new bolted line at Shanty Hollow, right after the last overhang on the way to the waterfall. Went out the other night and put the first bolt in (time restraint) on lead hanging from slings, going out again tonight to intstall the next two bolts and the anchors, probably won't be able to bolt these on lead, as I most likely won't have a belayer. Some clean up required higher up on the route, as the exit holds from the last overhang are covered in moss. Projected at 9+ or 10 something, the route follows mostly monster holds until the end crux overhang. The from start to finish the route inscribes almost a perfect 45 degree arc, the ending bulge has the smallest holds and the most extreme angle. Can't wait to finish and do the route, hope to see people on it in the future! Climb on!
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Shanty Hollow Bouldering
UPDATE 11/3/2011
Went back to Shanty last night, cleared away more vegetation off the rocks. Put up "Silverback" V1 and worked on a couple steep lines; will have to go back with a rope and rap down to some of the holds higher up. Still looking promising, will update as the project continues. Climb on!
Went back to Shanty last night, cleared away more vegetation off the rocks. Put up "Silverback" V1 and worked on a couple steep lines; will have to go back with a rope and rap down to some of the holds higher up. Still looking promising, will update as the project continues. Climb on!
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Shanty Hollow- Bouldering
UPDATE 10/30/2011
Happy Halloween! Spent the day at Shanty Hollow right outside of Bowling Green, KY cleaning up and brushing some new bouldering problems right off the trail. Established "Grovel", V1, and "Hidden Hole", V3 after clearing much dirt, moss, lichen, and vines away from the rock. Much potential remains in this area, will go back tomorrow night and continue work on this beautiful area. Hopefully will become a well travelled area; it looks like possible lines from V0 to V7 or V8 lie hidden under the greenery, only waiting to be cleaned off and established. Climb on!
Happy Halloween! Spent the day at Shanty Hollow right outside of Bowling Green, KY cleaning up and brushing some new bouldering problems right off the trail. Established "Grovel", V1, and "Hidden Hole", V3 after clearing much dirt, moss, lichen, and vines away from the rock. Much potential remains in this area, will go back tomorrow night and continue work on this beautiful area. Hopefully will become a well travelled area; it looks like possible lines from V0 to V7 or V8 lie hidden under the greenery, only waiting to be cleaned off and established. Climb on!
King's Bluff-Sport
Went to King's Bluff in Clarksville, TN with some of the crew today. For those that haven't climbed there, the limestone is amazing, clean, and aesthetic. Tufas, pockets, and tiny crimpers test the fingers and grip of all that ascend these cliffs. The whole crag is one big success story for the SCC. After a fatal slip of a climber a number of years ago, the climber's family attempted to sue the landowners but were halted by the Recreational Land Use Statutes that the Bluff falls under. After many options were looked at for the acquisition of the Bluff by the SCC, the landowners eventually donated the parcel of land to the organization, and the Bluff has continued to grow and sees much climber activity from all around the area. New routes are constantly being sought out, cleaned, and bolted, and remains one of the gems in the area. If climbing there, please be mindful of packing your trash, cigarette butts, etc. out when you leave. Climb on!
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