Mission Falls- Winter 2012

The approach, the climbs, the crag dog

 

 

 

Chris Harhi and I ventured up to Mission Falls early from Missoula and after some route finding mishaps in the nearby town of Saint Ignatius finally found our way to the trail and on to the approach, with Tucker the crag dog leaping from drift to drift behind us. The three mile approach starts off mellow and at mile 2.3 you start going up. And up. And up! Finally we crested the hill and saw the falls in their glorious entirety. We picked the top left route that one can see in the above photo, an 165' pillar system.

 

 

 

 

 

The route goes up the central pillar

Chris racking up, with the Mission Valley behind

 

 

We gained the anchor at the top and rapped off, just as chunks started coming down to the right and left off of smaller formations. It being mid-March, the ice wasn't super solid anymore, and we made the decision to make that our only route for the day. Down we came, and good that we did too, for no sooner were we back on the approach trail a massive pillar came crashing down. Last ice of the season I'm afraid! But the ice was hero quality, the approach was full-value, and Tucker the crag dog got plenty of exercise. Climb on!



Indian Creek- Spring 2012

Winter was over, Spring was in the air. That means rock season! Conor Dysinger and I headed towards the Utah desert for some crack climbing, meeting up with other Missoula climbers such as Cole and Sam, Tom, Cosette, Emerald, Allison, Claudine, Pamela, and some new friends we met at the Cottonwood Campground. Hadn't been crack climbing in literally years and got my butt handed to me the first day! Great weather and great rock made for an awesome time. Went to Supercrack Buttress, Way Rambo, Pistol Whipped, and Optimator Wall.

Blodgett- Timebinder

Long time no post, it's time to shake a leg and recount some of the latest adventures. Kyle Pease and I went and did Timebinder (III, 5.11b) in Blodgett Canyon in the Bitterroot range south of Missoula. High quality granite and gorgeous views make this a five-star route in my opinion. We headed out of town the night before and camped at the trailhead, waking at 4am to start the approach. We crossed the creek about a mile or two in and started the walk up the scree slope and gaining the starting ledge at about 6:30. The route takes a scrambly 5.7 path up to the first proper climbing, the Entrance Exam pitch. A 5.10c slab with a very fun move gets you to the start of the traverse pitch.

Approach Ledge, 6:30am

Kyle coming up Entrance Exam Pitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



The traverse pitch was a blast, Kyle took the lead and off he went. A fun exposed traverse and a couple of 10c moves takes you under a small overhang and to the start of the next pitch, Hematoma (5.10d), face moves and a thin crack. I took the lead again and was in for some of the most fun climbing I've ever done!

 

 

 

 



Top of Hematoma, soaking up the view

Psych at the belay!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up was the Red Tower pitch, a semi-detached pillar formation with a 5.10d crack right through the gap. Strenuous laybacking takes you to splitter thin hands and fingers, and after Kyle gunned through the lead I came up after.

 

 



Kyle psyched after the Red Tower Pitch.

 

 

 



The dropoff on the other side of the pillar. I'm sitting on it!

 

 

 

It was now a bit after noon and the day was scorchingly hot on the wall already, so we decided to forgo the last two pitches and bop on down. 5 rappels saw us back to Terra Firma, and back to the creek for a much needed dip in Blodgett Creek! Climb on!