Ch-Paa-Qn Ascent (Squaw Peak) October 2012

Went out with some buds and bagged Ch-Paa-Qn the native renaming of Squaw Peak. The better story, more pictures and full trip report here: www.caverpilot.com

Mt. Washington Winter Ascent March 2011

Just getting around to posting this but it's old news! Went to New Hampshire's Mt Washington with a great crew of Southern fellas. Spent a week in the White Mountains, a couple days ice climbing and an overnight climb in the observatory atop Mt. Washington, famous for it's foul (foul!!) weather, and it's mighty winds, record setting at 235 miles per hour. Guided by the North Face climber and guide Mark Synott (props to him by the way; he was an awesome, incredibly talented and competent guide) we made it up the Lionshead Route and completed the ascent in a little over 4 hours. 

Dry Tooling at the Kim Williams November 2012

Went for a fun morning before work to Kim Williams crag to do some drytooling with local climber and climbing gear maker Josh Cornish. Worked on the 10a on the far left of the crag, but due to time constraints we had to leave before more climbs could be done (or any decent pics taken). We'll be back!

UPDATE New Bolted Line on Kim Williams September 2012-December 2012

Work in progress on a new bolted line just before Mickey Mouse (the crappy mixed line that sometimes is in on the Kim Williams trail) The line follows the obvious holds up a small headwall, and can either be dry-tooled or climbed. Got one bolt in so far, waiting on a belayer and a power drill for the rest! The one in so far was drilled on lead, self belayed from an old eye-bolt and hanging from an old 1/4" "death bolt" that flexed reassuringly when I shifted my weight. Drilled with a Rocpec hand drill, 12mm Petzl Couer Goujon 5-piece bolt. Will place two or three more on the actual route, then two at the anchors with chains and quick links. More progress and some pics to come!

Rattler Gulch September 2012

Went to Rattler Gulch with Scotty from the Trailhead, together we did what we think were a 5.7 and a 5.9 (+?), then decided to do a scramble to the top then a scramble/grovel/stacked rap to the bottom. Sorry Scotty, I thought i had more pics!!

Kila Crags April 2012

Went for a day of cragging while we visited Missoula in April.
We all sent a fun 5.6, 5.7, 5.9, and another buddy and I sent a 10b and an 11a
Props to Aaron, Abigail, and of course Lori

Climbing the Grand Teton!! July 2012

We got to Jackson Hole the day before and decided after 14 hours of driving that we deserved a night to camp out and just chiiiiilllllll.

We visited some gear shops for some beta on the Owen-Spalding route up the Grand, and perused some of the better breweries before hitting the camp site at Curtis Canyon just to the East of town for the night. On the way up we found and met a wonderful couple of ladies, Leigh and Lisa who were parasailers and just happened to be in the campsite adjacent to us, so one thing led to another and half a bottle of Jagermeister and many stories later we settled in for the night.

 Next day saw us at the Lupine Meadows trailhead and on we went! We got a late start and decided to head for the Morraine campsite, at 11,000 ft because of the rough terrain from the Morraine up to Lower and Upper Saddles. We made it up and up.....and up........ Through the boulder fields, through the Alpine Meadow, up The Stairs (capitalized for reasons of sounding justifiably ominous!) For those who haven't done the climb with 60 pounds of climbing gear on their backs, there's no way to describe just how long and how steep this hike is up to the high camps. Think a vertical marathon with an eight year old clinging to you piggy-back style the whole way and you have an idea of what goes through your mind through that rocky trudge. About 40 minutes into The Stairs, Lori mentions her knee is troubling her. "Not too bad yet, but we'll keep an eye on it." Uh oh.... Foreshadowing aside, we made the rest of the hike up to camp with nary a complaint, and pitched the tent in the company of two fellow Southerners, Floridians in fact, who had decided to leave their vertically-challenged state for a vacation in high country.

The wind whipped up ferociously through the night and between the tent noise and a suspiciously marmot-like munching sound coming from the vestibules we didn't sleep very well. The next day brought hail and rain until midday, and unfortunately the summit window requires an exit from camp at about 7 or 8 in the morning to be off for the summit comfortably. At this time Lori stated that her knee was in pretty bad shape.... Our minds were made. Right after we decided to bail, the weather cleared up and the rest of the hike down at least was totally bluebird. It wasn't too bitter a decision to turn down off a major climbing objective when the love of your life is visibly in pain. Normal climbing partners can "Suck it up, dude, we came all this way, spent all this time, money, blah blah blah" but it's different when you see the person you share a home and bed with every night gritting her teeth against pain she obviously tries to hide. The descent was a sweet one. I taped her knee, and (against her will) shouldered her pack for part of the boulderfields. Down we came and off we went! Missoula-bound! Climb on!

UPDATE!! 11/26/12

Alright, time to get my butt in gear and post all the trip reports, pics, and activities I've been too lazy to take the time to do! It was quite a journey with the lady friend out here, and we've done a lot since we've arrived so it's high time I put some of it up. Here we goo....